Charbono is a rare, old-world grape noted for its fresh acidity and brambly fruit character. The vines in Napa Valley were planted in the early 20th century, but very few remain today. The last of California’s Charbono survives in a handful of parcels, tucked away on older vineyards. This 2017 vintage shows notes of blackberry, raspberry, mocha, and coffee. It’s a distinctive wine and pairs well with beef or a red-sauce pasta.